Silkewerk - Lace piole

Lace piole

A lace daunce [T12] and A lace piole [T11] are color variations of the same structure.

Stanley quotes Cotgrave 1611, which translates "piole" as "spotted, or speckled", and Speiser repeats this interpretation.

It's my opinion that "piole" was pronounced like "pall" and therefore confused. A "pall" is a Y shaped pattern in heraldry. This braid forms a series of Y's, stacked one upon the other. Given that heraldic terms are used to describe color effects throughout the manuscript, I think this is an equally likely translation.

Take eight loops in two colors, and place them on the following fingers:
Color 1: A B C D left
Color 2: A B C D right

Work with the right hand:
A takes through B C D right, the loop of D left unreversed. (You'll have two loops on A.)
Lower the left loops.

Work with the left hand:
A takes through B C D left, the loop of D right reversed.
Lower the right loops.

To lower the right loops:
C loop moves down onto D.
B loop moves down onto C.
Use your middle (B) finger to hook the original (inner) A loop, pulling it over and around the new (outer) loop and down onto B.

Repeat.

Source: Tollemache 11

Lace piole.
Take 4 bows of one color and set on thy right hand and 4 bows of another color and set them on thy left hand then shall A of thy right hand go through B C D of the self hand and take bow D of the left hand unreversed then low thy left bows and A left shall go through B C D of the self hand and take the bow D on the right and reversed downward then low the bow of C onto D right and the bow B onto C and the bow that is within on A shall go over the former bow onto B with help of your other hand and the bow that stand within on A shall dwell still on A and begin again.

Source: Harleian 15

For to make a lace piole.
Set 4 bows of one color on thy right hand, and set 4 bows of another color on thy left hand, and work in the manner of the lace downs [H14].

Source: Serene 15

A lace piole.
Take eight bows, four of one color and four of another color, and put the one color be of the one hand, and the other of the other hand, and then work in the same manner as in the daunce of eight bows [*].

[* Although Serene refers to a "daunce of eight bows", there isn't one in the ms. It is likely that it was accidently left out, because the preceding braid, "The same round" [S14] produces the round version of the missing lace daunce rather than a round version of the braid that is actually before it ("A Launce daunce broad of twelve bows" [S13]). Inserting a missing dawns braid between S13 and S14 clarifies everything.]