Silkewerk - Lace endente

Lace endente

The more attactive side of the braid forms underneath. This braid is composed of triangular sections, which allow the direction of the diagonal stripe to change while keeping the sides of the braid straight. Switching the direction of the diagonal without these extra moves pulls the braid itself into a zig-zag, as seen in the lace vinee [T56].

Take eight loops in three colors, and place on the following fingers:
Color 1: A B C D right
Color 2: A B left
Color 3: C D left

Work with the left hand:

Lower the left loops.

A takes through A B C D left, the loop of D right unreversed.

Move the loop from D left onto D right, unreversed.

Low the left loops
Hook B in the back A loop and pull it over and around the front A loop and onto B.

Twist all your loops, giving a 180° turn to each loop: [*]
Left hand - Twist the top of each loop downward (Clockwise.)
Right hand - Twist the bottom of each loop upward (Clockwise.)
Only the loops that were highed or lowed actually need to be twisted.

Repeat, traveling through one additional loop on the right hand each time, as follows:

Work with the left hand:

A takes through A B C D left, and D right, the loop of C right unreversed.

High the right loops where needed.

Move the loop from D left onto D right, unreversed.

Low the left loops

Twist all your loops, giving a 180° turn to each loop.

Work with the left hand:

A takes through A B C D left, and D C right, the loop of B right unreversed.

High the right loops where needed.

Move the loop from D left onto D right, unreversed.

Low the left loops

Twist all your loops, giving a 180° turn to each loop.

Work with the left hand:

A takes through A B C D left, and D C B right, the loop of A right unreversed.

High the right loops where needed.

Move the loop from D left onto D right, unreversed.

Low the left loops

Twist all your loops, giving a 180° turn to each loop.

Repeat these four steps with the right hand, reversing the direction of the twisting as well.

[* It's so much faster to twist the loops bottom upward and high the loops at the same time, a maneuver that's described in the opening paragraph as "reverse thy bows upward". The opposite, twisting the loops top downward and lowing the loops at the same time, is described under, "reverse thy bows downward." Use your thumb or other hand to help. The back loop on A right simply rolls over and around the front loop and onto B. Most importantly, only the loops that traveled across the braid have the opportunity to get twisted. Twisting every single loop, whether it was used or not would result in an ugly buildup of twist, especially in the last loops to go. When D is moved to the left, it needs to be taken so it twists in the proper direction.

This braid is the main reason why I think that reversing upward/downward is the proper way to work all the braids of this type. Without it, too much is left unsaid in the directions. With it, all problems are solved without any special understanding, including twisting in the opposite direction when working with the other hand. I have no idea why the braids that need it wrote out the more cumbersome and inexact two-step (low/high then twist all loops) method when there are better instructions in the opening paragraph.]

Source: Tollemache 17

Lace endente.
Take 4 bows of one color and set them on A B C D right and 2 bows of another color and set them on A B left and other 2 bows of third color and set them on C D left Then shall A left take through his bow and B C D left the bow of D E right unreversed and then shall D E right take the bow of D left unreversed then low thy bows so that the bow that was take of D right dwell still on A left then reverse all thy bows and then shall a left take through his bow and B C D of the same and D right the bow C right unreversed then high thy bow of D right on C then shall D right take the bow of D left then low thy bows as before so that the bow that was taken of c right dwell on A left then reverse all thy bows and then shall A left take through his and B C D left and D C right the bow of B right unreversed then high thy bows of D C right then shall D right take the bow of D left then low thy left bows as before then reverse all thy bows then shall A left take through him and B C D left and D C B right the bow of A right unreversed then high thy right bows and D right shall take bow of D E left then low thy left bow as before then reverse all thy bows then shall thou work with thy right hand as thou didst with thy left and at every taking reverse all.

Source: Harleian 19 [*]

For to make a lace endented.
Take 4 bows of one color, and set them on A, B, C, D right, and 4 bows of another color, and set them on A, B, C, D left. Then shall A left take through his bow and B, C, D left the bow of D right unreversed; and then shall D right take the bow of D left unreversed. And then low thy left bows so that the bow that was take of D right dwell still on A left. Then reverse all thy bows, and then shall A left take through his bow and B, C, D left, and D right unto C. Then shall D right take the bow of D left unreversed. Then low thy left bows as before, so that the bow that was take of C right dwell on A left. Then reverse all thy bows, and then shall A left take through his bow amd B, C, D left and D, C right the bow B Right unreversed. Then high thy bows of C, D right. Then shall D right take the bow of D left. Then low thy left bows as before. Then reverse all thy bows. Then shall A left take through his bow and B, C, D left and D, C, B right the bow of A right unreversed. Then high thy right bows, and D right shall take the bow of D left unreversed. Then low thy left bows. Then shall thou with thy right hand do as thou didst with thy left hand, and at every taking reverse all thy bows.

[* Not exactly the same as Tollemache. Only 2 colors instead of 3.]

Source: Serene 64

A lace indented.
Take eight bows, four white, two red, and two black, and be the four white upon A B C D right and the two red upon A B left and the two black upon C D left, and then shalt thou take D right unreversed through A B C D left and set it upon A left, and then reverse all thy bows, and then shalt thou take C right unreversed through A B C D left and D right and set it upon A left and reverse all thy bows, and then shalt thou take B right unreversed through A B C D left and D C right and set it upon A left, and then reverse all thy bows and then shalt thou take A right through A B C D left and D C B right, and then reverse all thy bows, and then shalt thou work with thy right as thou didst with thy left hand, and so shall you do all the bows at every bow, taking of both thine hands, and on this manner shall you take first of the left hand and then of the right hand the bow D through A B C D and then with the left hand the bow C through A B C D and D right, and then B through A B C D and D C right and then A through A B C D and D C B right, and so take thy bows till thou hast so done.